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The Port,Terra Amata and Hilltop Follies
To the east, Quai des Etats-Unis circles around the wind-punched hill of the Chateau, where it's known as Quai Rauba-Capeu ('hat thief), before it meets placid Bassin Lympia.the departure point for ferries to Corsica.The great columned edifice set into theflank of the hill istheMonument auxMorts.which commemoratesthe 4,000 Nicois who died during the First World War.<br />
The Place de l'Ile de Beaute, lined with 18th- and higth-century buildings, opens out on tothe port and the imposing neoclassica! church of Notre-Dame,topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary, where sailors stili pray for full nets and a safe return. Chekhov used tosaunter along the jetty opposite, where old men stili sitwith their papers and poochesto muse away the mornings.<br />
Eastof here is the Musee de Terra Amata at 25 Bd Carnot, rather improbably tucked into at ypical Nicois residence, complete with stripy blue and white awnings. Under neath, the museum comprises a cave holding one of the world'soldest'households', a pebble-walled wind-shelter built by elephant-hunters 400 millennia ago.which wasdiscovered Afascinating set of models, bones and tools helps evoke life in Nice in the prehistoric era. Nor had things changed radically 200,000 years later,judging bythe Palaeolithic relics left in the nearby Grotte du Lazaret.<br />
Boulevard Carnot (the Basse Comiche) continues east out of the port, up past some extravagant Belle Epoque villas gazing loftily out of the suburban sprawl,culminating in eccentricity in the Chateau de l'Anglais (a private residence) - pink, turreted, and then crenellated for good measure. Built in 1858 by Colonel Robert Smith, a military engineer in India,the result weds English Perpendicular with mock-Mogul Palaceto produce one of the best follies on the Riviera. Behind this rise the forested slopes of Mont Boron;off Route Forestiere du Mont Boron.the magnificent Sentier Bellevue meanders tothe top, which is capped by a fort of 1880.<br />
A far more delightful piece of military architecture, Fort Alban, is just of the Moyenne Comiche, above the youth hostel (take bus toChemin du Fort or, if you'redriving turn right off Route Forestiere du Mont Boron, on to Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban). Built in 1570, it bristles with fourtoy turrets roofed with glazed Nicois tiles.The guards could see ali the way to Menton.<br />
To the north, off the Grande Comiche at Bd de l'Observatoire, is an elegant observatoire designed in part by Charles Garnier, with a dome by Gustave Eiffel.The lens was once one of the most powerful in the world 2,000 stars have been discovered here, which visitors can see for themselves at the annual Festival of Space and Stars in August.<br />";