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St.Tropez: From the Port to the Citadelle
Just outside the museum,the port is edged with the colourful pastel houses that inspired the Fauves, a scene that regains much ofits originai charm if you can get up before the trippers and the scores of hack painters who block the quay. It was demolished during the warand, by the time it was rebuilt.the bohemian elite from Paris had already chosen the town as their summer quarters, with the result that new shops and restaurants took the place of the old boathousesand storing sheds.The view is especially good from the Mole Jean Reveille, the narrow pier which encloses the yacht filled port and looks out, sothey say, across the bayto Sardinia and back towards the Alps on very clear days. In the Street a bove, the I9th-century church of St-Torpes contains a gilt bust of St Torpesand a sculptureof his little boat, carried in the bravades.<br />
Seek out Place de l'Ormeau, Rue de la Ponche and Place aux Herbes, poetic corners of old St-Tropez that have refused to shift into top gear.The rambling little Ouartier de la Ponche, with several coolly chic restaura nts and bars,folds itself around the shore and the tower of the now defunct Chateau de Suffren. Suffren was an i8th-century admiral who spent two years battling in the East Indies and could never reconcile himself to the boredom of his life afterwards; his statue overlooks the port. The narrow Rue de la Ponche leads out to a point surmounted by the Tour Vieille, usually crawling with unfeasibly acrobatic children, with a little beach which is very nice for a quick dip. You can look down on shiny roof tiles from the 16th-18th-century Javal citadelle at the top of town, or visit its little Musee Naval. Another essential ingredient of St-Tropez is the charming Place Carnot,better known by its old name of Place des Lices,an archetypal slice of Provence with its piane trees, its Tuesday and Saturday markets, its cafes and eternal games of petanque.
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